Chef-a-Go-go Files
Volume 1 Issue 1- Monday July 14th, 2008
This is a continuation from the Chef Shane – The Culinary Globe Trotters’ feature article in the Chef-a-Go-go Newsletter.
Money money money!
All expat jobs PAY money – it’s just that some places are easier to move it around than others.
Fortunately, Dubai is well serviced with exchange centres and remittance depots. The biggest of these are Thomas Cook, Western Union and Al Ghurair.
You need a passport, and away you go.
The local currency is the UAE Dirham, which is pegged to the US dollar at a constant rate of 3.67 dirhams to the US dollar. Non constant rates, which seem to be sliding as the American dollar collapses, are 3.4 dirhams to the Australian Dollar, 11.7 Indian rupees to the dirham, and 7.2 dirham’s to the pound.
Chances are that you will be paid against the US dollar, or in Dirhams.
It is a source of sadness for those who have been there a few years, as the US dollar, and thus the dirham, has really fallen in value.
Some countries in the Middle East have already changed to, or are considering a change to the Euro as a currency to peg against, but the UAE has not moved in this direction.
Sending money home is as little as 10 dirhams per transfer to India, and up to 40 dirham’s to Western Nations.
Many nationalities live in Dubai, and it is a very tolerant and inclusive place.
Having said that, it is quite a discriminatory environment, with people definitely being paid and hired according to their passport.
Salaries are low for line staff and unqualified / semi qualified workers, average for middle management, and quite high for senior management.
Line staff – stewards, commis, and demi chefs
The labour force at the coalface consists predominantly of Indian, Pakistani, Filipino, Indonesian, South African and African – due to the low salaries on offer. (Starting at as little as 900 dirhams a month, and up to 2000 dirhams a month)
As India in particular strengthens its economy and the dollar falls, Dubai is becoming a less attractive proposition for Indian workers, with opportunities back home on the increase.
Dubai is hence looking at new sources of inexpensive labour with English skills and training.
It is a great place to have on the CV, but at line staff level, you won’t be financing your first genuine Rolex, or driving a Ferrari anytime soon.
It is a 6 day week, and there are not many fuzzy feel good western HR practices in place.
Career paths are not de rigeur, and many chefs at line staff level can end up feeling used or unappreciated. Having said that, with a progressive company, opportunities to exist for those that stand out, and choosing the right hotel to work at can be a positive step on the CV.
Middle management:
Most commonly South African, Indian, Filipino, you’d be looking at 2500dhs to 5000dhs a month for CDP to junior sous chef, and 5000dhs to 9000dhs for sous chef at a more senior level.
Here you will find fairly good opportunities to develop, and you can live reasonably comfortably.
There are some great properties here to work with, although the hours are long, and the expectations high at this level. There will be many challenges, but it is a good place to develop skills as a new people manager, and there are some great chefs and sous chefs to learn from.
Senior Management:
At the Exec Chef, Exec Sous, and F&B manager level, salaries are high, with excellent benefits.
Starting at 10,000 dirham’s, and up to 25,000 / 30,000 dirhams on average, you have many opportunities to enjoy “The Dubai lifestyle” or save a few pennies to send home or invest.
Naturally a 6 days week, and your challenges will include handling 100% expat teams from between 1-4 nationalities who live and work together.
This means intensifying your abilities to be a father/mother to your staff, as well as a teacher, diplomat, policeman and chef.
It is possible to send a lot of money home, although there are so many temptations in Dubai to coax your cash out of you that many people succumb to the extravagant expat lifestyle.
The rewards are excellent at senior management level, and the networking opportunities are great.
Again, sending money home is as simple as a trip to the Exchange, which is located everywhere around the emirate.
A total lack of culture shock
The first thing you will notice if you come from a city, is the lack of culture shock.
Those that come here expecting a country rich in Arabic heritage will be in for a surprise, as Dubai is a very international city, and most of it is brand spanking new.
Signs and documents are in English and Arabic.
Those who speak no Arabic at all actually get on easier than those who speak ONLY Arabic!
80% of the UAE population consists of expatriates, and if you were going to pick a language to go there with, you’d be best off with English or Hindi.
There is a hectic drinking culture, with a profusion of bars from dingy 3 star dives to plush 7 star palaces.
Alcohol is allowed only in hotel bars, (and one or two restaurants that fall within very specific guidelines) but within those bars, “no rules apply”
Drinking in bars is an expensive pastime, with a beer costing around 20-25 dirham’s average.
You can go to the bottle shop, but you need to get a license from the government in order to purchase. The requirements are quite intensive, so your employer can help with this.
Dress is free and open – wear what you want, but show some respect. Having said that, many people don’t.
There is an Arabic tinge to Dubai, but you could just as easily be standing in Singapore, the Gold Coast, or any other new metropolis.
Internet and media are high tech, and Dubai has several “cities” as free zones specifically for different sectors such as these.
Internet censorship does exist on the major internet provider, which annoys some, but proxy servers are available if you find necessary sites being blocked by the automated system.
The two national phone providers both have strong products, with excellent coverage and great call rates.
Don’t worry about having to adapt to the Arabic way of life. It is actively discouraged, unlike in Egypt and other ‘older’ Middle Eastern countries, and if you try and speak Arabic, the locals will more often than not reply in English.
If you are looking to immerse yourself in a rich Arabic cultural experience, Dubai is not the place to be.
But don’t worry – the Emirate of Sharjah is just 17km away, and provides all that and more.
Things to enjoy
Shisha - the “hubbly bubbly” water pipe with fruit scented tobacco. This is a favourite pastime for locals and expats to sit for an hour or two with a Moroccan tea or fresh juice and smoke. 7dhs to 50dhs, averaging around 25-30dhs in most nice places.
Not as healthy as a run around the block, but it is something that many Dubai residents enjoy, even if only from time to time.
The beaches – awesome palm fringed beaches with aquamarine seas and warm waters. They really are a pleasure and a great stress reliever after a hard week.
If you are lucky enough to work nights only, start the day with a swim.
The lack of crime – really, this is one of the safest cities you could live in. It becomes something you really appreciate while you are there, and something you miss a great deal when you leave.
The fresh fruit juices and the Arabic and Indian food. Inexpensive, great quality, and plentiful.
The world’s best DJ’s. Not my thing personally, but Dubai is a hotspot for international acts, drawing the world’s top DJ’s on a regular basis. You’ll see the top names from around the globe performing weekly.
Cost of living - Yes, it sounds bizarre in such an expensive city, but most packages are inclusive of accom and transport, so unless you drink a lot or eat at upmarket restaurants, you can live quite inexpensively.
The shopping – this is a big drawcard for people around the world. Dubai is tax free and competitive. If you can buy it, it is here. And it is less expensive than almost anywhere else.
Gold is cheaper here than almost anywhere if you want to invest in something stable, clothes, designer goods, electronics, cars, games, souvenirs, duty free – all at bargain basement prices for top quality goods. Lots of knock offs too, if that is your thing.
The Architecture – The most amazing structures in the world are springing up all around you, and it is like an interactive experience in what is possible.
Here you will find the world’s biggest shopping malls, the worlds 2 tallest buildings, the world’s most ambitious and innovative reclaimed land developments (in the shape of palm trees and world maps).
Also huge manmade creeks and manmade waterfront developments, the world’s first totally green city, the world’s first 7 star hotel, the world’s first underwater hotel, and a plethora of other incredible, massive developments, including “Dubailand” a project covering 3 billion square feet, and twice the size of Walt Disney world.
The location – very central to Europe Africa, Russia and Asia, Dubai is a perfect place to explore a few other parts of the globe, and travel is a massive industry, with some well priced fares and packages to take advantage of.
The safety – It really is a very safe place to live, with very little crime, and very little theft.
It is the type of place where people leave their laptop on the table in cafes and restaurants while they go to the toilet, and their wallet and phone on the table as they eat.
In this day and age, it is a rare occurrence, and one of the most appreciated things about experiencing Dubai.
Rip offs at the local level are quite rare, and most people are honest and helpful.
Things to take care about
Your Package
Staff up to CDP and restaurant supervisor will share a room with one or more people, and managers, sous chefs and exec chefs should get their own room, and in many cases their own apartment.
Make sure accommodation IS included, and check all aspects of exactly what accommodation to expect so there are no surprises when you arrive.
This is one of the most common sources of discontent.
If accommodation is NOT included, think twice about moving to Dubai, as accommodation is extremely expensive, and a hassle to find.
Many companies save money by locating accommodation in Abu Dhabi emirate, distant parts of Dubai, or often the emirate of Sharjah which is less expensive.
Traffic congestion is a real issue, and if you end up living in certain areas you can travel between 1-2 hours each way, which adds a lot of time to your work day, and impacts your sleep and leisure activities.
With entitlements and contract length – be sure!
If you are not happy now, you will be less happy 12 months from now.
Contracts are almost impossible to break, and have financial penalties.
You will find yourself unable to work again in UAE if you abscond (break contract and run), and if you try to terminate the contract half way through, or accept a better opportunity elsewhere, it can be quite expensive, and reflect poorly on you.
Take into account all living expenses, including your lifestyle, and ensure that your package allows you the benefits you expect. Once you are there, it is too late to change jobs.
Most packages include accom, airfare, visa, transport, uniforms. For senior staff, officer’s check or meals included. Triple check your accommodation and benefits.
Holidays usually paid 4 weeks a year, with return airfare to point of hire.
For line staff to CDP this is once every 2 years. For senior staff, holidays are annually.
Ramadan
A month long event on the Islamic calendar, Ramadan will almost definitely be explained to expatriates.
Basically, no smoking, eating, drinking during daylight hours for Muslims, and for non Muslims, you are required to show some respect and refrain from such activities in public.
Some restaurants operate for lunch, but definitely no smoking, drinking, swearing etc in public.
Nightclubs do not play loud music for this month – but background music is OK.
Hotels have lavish “Ramadan tents” that come alive at sunset and stay open well into the night – often until 4am.
All restaurants offer an “Iftar” buffet for breaking the fast, and traffic tends to be a little more dangerous than usual as people rush home to be with their families and eat at sunset.
Take extra care to make yourself aware of what to do, and what not to do during this period.
The Traffic
It’s fast, undisciplined and arrogant. Accidents at high speed are a fact of life, as are traffic queue jumpers, tailgaters and drink drivers. Take care on the roads, and don’t hog the fast lane.
Dubai’s many 6 lane highways are the cause of much frustration, so try and locate yourself so you do not need to travel too far, or drive through too many “Salik” automated toll gates at 4dhs each time.
Petrol and cars are inexpensive, but taxi fares add up quickly, and public transport is not very well developed.
A new fast metro train is due to open soon, so this would be a good option to live near if moving to Dubai from now into the future.
The Summer
Is it hot enough for you? The mercury hits 49 degrees Celsius (120 Fahrenheit).
I thought I was macho enough to tough it out, but at that temperature, more than a few minutes leaves you with a throbbing head and some palpitations.
Go to the beach? Well you may find the water is hot, and the sand will burn your feet.
July and August are definitely the two months you will hear a LOT about from the other expats, and a time that most people choose to stay indoors.
Fortunately there are a lot of great malls, cinemas, hotels etc to hang out in for those two months, and most accommodation is equipped for the climate.
Rainfall is virtually zero for most of the year – a few days here and there between January and March.
The climate is definitely something to be enjoyed in Dubai, but the same cannot be said of the 2 infamous “summer months”
That’s a quick wrap of the ins and outs of life in Dubai.
There is of course a lot more to know, and if you want to know more, post questions, opinions or responses on the ProChef360 blog.
Chef Shane – The Culinary Globe Trotter
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